The Enchanted Garden on the Whittier-Mapleton Garden Tour

June 24th, 2010

Whittier-Mapelton Garden Tour:

I have received many requests for a copy of the garden overview that was handed out for the home on 4th street (lovingly called “the enchanted garden”).  It is with great pleasure that I include this material for those who want to learn more about the intricacies of the garden.  Each piece creates the next.  Such is nature.  Enjoy!

This was the third year that the garden was on the tour and it is truly beautiful to see how each person embraces its intimacies and subtleties. It was a pleasure to meet so many wonderful people and I thank you for walking through the enchanted garden and for supporting the Whittier Mapelton Garden Tour.  The children it will help are the flowers in society's garden, each one with their own beauty and strength, each one with a lesson to teach us.

The Enchanted Garden

An overview of the Garden:

Nature is always creating and re-creating and this garden is merely a microcosm of this very dance.  The tiered landscape, koi ponds and waterfall, curved brick walls, the fairy tale metal fence, sweeping stairs accented with curved red bridges, a beautiful teak pagoda, the addition of  one of the “Longmont Geese” and of course the scattered sculptures throughout the gardens all come together to create nature’s playground.

The Soil: 

The soil is an important piece of this garden’s success.  The soil begins with a mixture of screened planter’s mix, compost and peat moss.  We then create a more specific soil environment depending on the plants and the microclimate in which they thrive. All of the garden beds are enriched several times throughout the growing season. Each time a plant is moved, added or subtracted we take the opportunity to enrich the beds. Ample levels of organic matter increase the water holding capacity of the soil and provide a habitat for larger populations of microorganisms, which, in turn, increase the soil’s nutrient exchange activity. Applications of Organic Worm Castings, Organic Compost & a slow release organic fertilizer will provide nutrients not only for plants but also for a multitude of beneficial organisms living in the soil that help the plants grow strong.

Organic Fertilizers:

There are several types of fertilizer: Well aged sheep, cow or horse manure, fish poop, bat guano, worm castings, and cottonseed meal to name a few. The most common additive in these gardens is Eco-compost.  The amount of compost that is added is dependent on the individual plants ability to utilize fertilizer.  For instance:  Peonies are rather resentful of too much fertilizer. For that matter, most perennials do not require large amounts of fertilizing. In fact, many will respond to over-fertilization by becoming excessively tall and produce minimal or no flowers.  This is why the use of organic fertilizers is ideal.  The nutrients from the fertilizers and organic matter are absorbed much more slowly and can be governed by the plants needs vs. our need to control the plants.  For those plants that do require more fertilizer we supplement the compost with an organic elixir. This elixir contains fish poop as a nitrogen source, an emulsifier such as revive to bring the nutrients more readily to the roots of the plant and vitamin B to help reduce stress due to heat or wind.  These are combined in water and spread with 5 gallon buckets into the gardens.

How These Individual Gardens Create The Feeling of Space:  

Size, shape, texture, color, full  sun, dappled sun, partial shade or woodland shade, arid air or humidity all help to create the many micro climates of these gardens.  Below are a few examples of these microclimates:
Sunny perennial beds: Sunny beds are ideal for xeric plants which thrive in less water and heat.  Since xeric plants don’t thrive in wet conditions we use a small amount of pea gravel at the base of the root balls when we plant in order to allow for better drainage. The soil in these beds will have less peat moss as well since peat moss helps in retaining water. However, since Peat moss is also a valuable source for nutrients we adjust by adding more compost as well as bat guano and worm castings.  Worms are also an important addition to these beds since they aerate the soil allowing for better drainage.

Rose Beds: 

The rose beds were raised ever so slightly to allow for better drainage.  Roses do not like to have wet feet.  We also amended the soil in these beds with sand to facilitate better drainage.  This is crucial in most Front Range gardens due to the amount of water retaining clay in our soils.  Lavender is planted with the roses since they are beneficial to one another’s well being and as such are labeled “companion plants.”

Partial Sun Gardens: 

These are ideal.  They are created by selectively pruning the heavier canopy areas of the trees in certain gardens to allow for morning sun and afternoon shade.  Where possible these are a blissful addition to any garden

Arid Shade Gardens: 

 

While proper soil preparation is vital for any type of garden, the soil in Arid shade gardens often has even more deficiencies than soil found in open, sunny spaces. Trees, hedges, and shrubs rob much of the moisture and nutrients from surrounding soil. Walls and fences deflect rainwater, resulting in dry soil. All of these factors must be taken into account.

Woodland Shade Gardens:   

These are the gardens that are nestled in near the waterfalls.  Humidity loving plants like Rhododendrons, ferns, Sweet Williams, and Hostas flourish here. These areas can be much richer due to the organic matter and it’s ability to decompose more quickly.  However, on the balancing side of this are the issues that come with moisture.  For instance:  a thick build-up of damp leaves in woodland areas can promote fungal diseases and infestations of slugs and snails.  It’s truly a dance of nature.

The Trees: 

What would a garden be without trees?  Every year these trees are inspected for their overall growth habits. This includes removing lateral branches that may break in the spring snows as well as removing any damaged limbs. Springtime is the time for pruning to facilitate the issues of overcrowding which can lead to unhealthy understory trees.  It’s also the perfect time to assist with creating more penetration of light or encouraging more dense areas of shade. The best pruning ritual however is to plant the right tree in the right place.

Tips of a water efficient garden:

Adding organic matter to the soil will help the gardens natural ability to retain moisture. This leads to less water use.  Having shade gardens require less frequent watering, as the lack of direct sunlight reduces the rate of evaporation. When it is time to water remember that the rule of thumb in all gardens is to water until it has penetrated four or five inches of soil. Allow the soil to dry out slightly before watering again.  Shorter watering times more often foster more shallow roots and weaker plants.  By watering deeper for longer periods of time the roots are encouraged to reach out for the water and become stronger at their core.

PET ALERT – cocoa mulch dangerous to dogs

February 19th, 2009

I recently received this alert from “WILT” (women in landscape technology). I have seen problems occur from the use of this mulch.  Please Pass this information on if you know of anyone who has dog friends.

“Cocoa Mulch, which is sold by Home Depot, Foreman’s Garden Supply and other Garden supply stores, contains a lethal ingredient called ‘ Theo bromine’. It is lethal to dogs and cats. It smells like chocolate and it really attracts dogs. They will ingest this stuff and die. Several deaths already occurred in the last 2-3 weeks. Theo bromine is in all chocolate, especially dark or baker’s chocolate which is toxic to dogs. Cocoa bean shells contain potentially toxic quantities of theobromine, a xanthenes compound similar in effects to caffeine and theophylline. A dog that ingested a lethal quantity of garden mulch made from cacao bean shells developed severe convulsions and died 17 hours later. Analysis of the stomach contents and the ingested cacao bean shells revealed the presence of lethal amounts of theobromine.”

Welcome

June 20th, 2008

It is truly wonderful to have a little space to share visions and to nurture nature.  I was serenaded today by 4 brand new baby barn sparrows and 2 baby goats and it reminded me of the true simplicity of nature.  To that end I thought I would share the 7 simple steps to xeriscape.  It’s only natural.  There aren’t any hidden secrets.  I hope you find some piece of this that calls to you and please feel free to pass it on.  A little planning will give mother nature the help she needs this summer to make your garden of dreams come to life!  Happy planting!  ☺  April

7 Steps of Xeriscape

1. Planning and Design

Before you ever pick up a shovel, pick up a pencil first. What will the yard be used for? Do you have children, dogs, cats, a vegetable garden, compost bin, clothes line? Will you be entertaining, playing games like horseshoes? Do you love the view of the mountains, but not the view of you neighbor’s hot tub? Do you have drainage problems? A first step is to sketch out your yard. Do several “goose egg studies” on where you might put play areas, gardens, beds, or service areas. Indicate places you do or don’t want screens. Work off of these studies for you final design. At this point, you can either go to a landscape architect or continue on your own. Read the rest of this entry »