2011 Whittier-Mapleton Hill Garden Tour

May 30th, 2011

Come see the 9th Annual Whittier-Mapleton Hill Garden Tour

http://whittiergardentour.com/

This is what the Tour website has to say:

"This garden is back on our tour by popular demand. It has one of Boulder’s most unique landscapes, covering more than an acre. The front yard features a bright explosion of color all summer long with a variety of annuals, perennials and flowering shrubs. Behind the back gate, lies a spectacular, magical forest. A meandering brick path leads you down to a beautiful pool with a waterfall along the way and unusual plantings not often seen in Colorado, all organically maintained. The garden is filled with surprises around each turn, such as a large goose made out of egg shells, an enormous friendly sculpted tortoise and a koi pond. The rhododendrons and azaleas are at home here among many other shade-loving plants. There are many stories that abound in the garden including a child’s fairy tale woven in the iron fencing surrounding two sides of the yard. This garden provides a fantasyland for everyone including avid gardeners, children and passer-bys."

The Enchanted Garden on the Whittier-Mapleton Garden Tour

June 24th, 2010

Whittier-Mapelton Garden Tour:

I have received many requests for a copy of the garden overview that was handed out for the home on 4th street (lovingly called “the enchanted garden”).  It is with great pleasure that I include this material for those who want to learn more about the intricacies of the garden.  Each piece creates the next.  Such is nature.  Enjoy!

This was the third year that the garden was on the tour and it is truly beautiful to see how each person embraces its intimacies and subtleties. It was a pleasure to meet so many wonderful people and I thank you for walking through the enchanted garden and for supporting the Whittier Mapelton Garden Tour.  The children it will help are the flowers in society's garden, each one with their own beauty and strength, each one with a lesson to teach us.

The Enchanted Garden

An overview of the Garden:

Nature is always creating and re-creating and this garden is merely a microcosm of this very dance.  The tiered landscape, koi ponds and waterfall, curved brick walls, the fairy tale metal fence, sweeping stairs accented with curved red bridges, a beautiful teak pagoda, the addition of  one of the “Longmont Geese” and of course the scattered sculptures throughout the gardens all come together to create nature’s playground.

The Soil: 

The soil is an important piece of this garden’s success.  The soil begins with a mixture of screened planter’s mix, compost and peat moss.  We then create a more specific soil environment depending on the plants and the microclimate in which they thrive. All of the garden beds are enriched several times throughout the growing season. Each time a plant is moved, added or subtracted we take the opportunity to enrich the beds. Ample levels of organic matter increase the water holding capacity of the soil and provide a habitat for larger populations of microorganisms, which, in turn, increase the soil’s nutrient exchange activity. Applications of Organic Worm Castings, Organic Compost & a slow release organic fertilizer will provide nutrients not only for plants but also for a multitude of beneficial organisms living in the soil that help the plants grow strong.

Organic Fertilizers:

There are several types of fertilizer: Well aged sheep, cow or horse manure, fish poop, bat guano, worm castings, and cottonseed meal to name a few. The most common additive in these gardens is Eco-compost.  The amount of compost that is added is dependent on the individual plants ability to utilize fertilizer.  For instance:  Peonies are rather resentful of too much fertilizer. For that matter, most perennials do not require large amounts of fertilizing. In fact, many will respond to over-fertilization by becoming excessively tall and produce minimal or no flowers.  This is why the use of organic fertilizers is ideal.  The nutrients from the fertilizers and organic matter are absorbed much more slowly and can be governed by the plants needs vs. our need to control the plants.  For those plants that do require more fertilizer we supplement the compost with an organic elixir. This elixir contains fish poop as a nitrogen source, an emulsifier such as revive to bring the nutrients more readily to the roots of the plant and vitamin B to help reduce stress due to heat or wind.  These are combined in water and spread with 5 gallon buckets into the gardens.

How These Individual Gardens Create The Feeling of Space:  

Size, shape, texture, color, full  sun, dappled sun, partial shade or woodland shade, arid air or humidity all help to create the many micro climates of these gardens.  Below are a few examples of these microclimates:
Sunny perennial beds: Sunny beds are ideal for xeric plants which thrive in less water and heat.  Since xeric plants don’t thrive in wet conditions we use a small amount of pea gravel at the base of the root balls when we plant in order to allow for better drainage. The soil in these beds will have less peat moss as well since peat moss helps in retaining water. However, since Peat moss is also a valuable source for nutrients we adjust by adding more compost as well as bat guano and worm castings.  Worms are also an important addition to these beds since they aerate the soil allowing for better drainage.

Rose Beds: 

The rose beds were raised ever so slightly to allow for better drainage.  Roses do not like to have wet feet.  We also amended the soil in these beds with sand to facilitate better drainage.  This is crucial in most Front Range gardens due to the amount of water retaining clay in our soils.  Lavender is planted with the roses since they are beneficial to one another’s well being and as such are labeled “companion plants.”

Partial Sun Gardens: 

These are ideal.  They are created by selectively pruning the heavier canopy areas of the trees in certain gardens to allow for morning sun and afternoon shade.  Where possible these are a blissful addition to any garden

Arid Shade Gardens: 

 

While proper soil preparation is vital for any type of garden, the soil in Arid shade gardens often has even more deficiencies than soil found in open, sunny spaces. Trees, hedges, and shrubs rob much of the moisture and nutrients from surrounding soil. Walls and fences deflect rainwater, resulting in dry soil. All of these factors must be taken into account.

Woodland Shade Gardens:   

These are the gardens that are nestled in near the waterfalls.  Humidity loving plants like Rhododendrons, ferns, Sweet Williams, and Hostas flourish here. These areas can be much richer due to the organic matter and it’s ability to decompose more quickly.  However, on the balancing side of this are the issues that come with moisture.  For instance:  a thick build-up of damp leaves in woodland areas can promote fungal diseases and infestations of slugs and snails.  It’s truly a dance of nature.

The Trees: 

What would a garden be without trees?  Every year these trees are inspected for their overall growth habits. This includes removing lateral branches that may break in the spring snows as well as removing any damaged limbs. Springtime is the time for pruning to facilitate the issues of overcrowding which can lead to unhealthy understory trees.  It’s also the perfect time to assist with creating more penetration of light or encouraging more dense areas of shade. The best pruning ritual however is to plant the right tree in the right place.

Tips of a water efficient garden:

Adding organic matter to the soil will help the gardens natural ability to retain moisture. This leads to less water use.  Having shade gardens require less frequent watering, as the lack of direct sunlight reduces the rate of evaporation. When it is time to water remember that the rule of thumb in all gardens is to water until it has penetrated four or five inches of soil. Allow the soil to dry out slightly before watering again.  Shorter watering times more often foster more shallow roots and weaker plants.  By watering deeper for longer periods of time the roots are encouraged to reach out for the water and become stronger at their core.

April 30th, 2010

4 + feet of snow that is still coming down like a monsoon.  My pine trees are starting to lean towards the ground in a serious way.  They can’t take the weight.  I may lose some.  You can’t even imagine what 4 feet of cement looks like!  OMG!  Dulce can’t walk anywhere unless I plow in front of him.  Spoiled little boy. The least he could do is help me dig!

The good news is that my back, shoulders, and neck are actually feeling better today after 4 hours of snowblowing yesterday.  Go figure.  Jan did the shoveling while I blew and neither one of us could move last night.  We were going to eat, drink and watch a movie.  Both of us could barely move.  We were half way through cooking dinner when the power went out.  Off I go to the garage to get camping gear.  Dulce is looking at me like “what the heck?  Camping NOW?”  Coleman lantern and cook stove were assembled.  Flashlights powered up.  Wood burning stove stoked. Of course, right as we finished cooking our fine gourmet meal the power comes back on.  Whatever!

Then April has an idea! Why don’t we fill the bathtub with water so that we have water to flush the toilets if the power goes out.  Easy.  I start the tub.

Jan went up to turn it off about 5 minutes later and said “it’s only 1/8 full.  Low water pressure.”

“No problemo” I reply.

I went on my merry way finishing up the margaritas thinking she had turned off the water.  We sat down and ate, had drinks, and started watching “the L word.”

About 45 minutes later we hear a waterfall pouring in the entry way.  “What the heck?”  We both look at this cascade of water pouring out of a ceiling light in the entryway.

At that point Jan yells “shit….the tub.”  WHAT????  I thought she had turned it off.  Up we sprint, leaping 3 stairs at a time.  Sore from blowing?  Gosh, we could barely move just a few minutes ago and now we are going for the gold in the 3 stair relay event!  When we get to my master bath in my bedroom we see at least 2” of water on the floor and it’s literally pouring over the top of the tub.  Jan is mortified.  I start laughing and can’t quit.

Some days you just need to have something crazy happen to make you appreciate the humor in life.  I’m still giggling.  I kept picturing “the cat in the hat.”  Maybe I should check my meds?  We mopped and slopped and mopped some more.  The end result?  I have a sparkling clean bathroom and the light fixture has dried out.  I think all is good.

The bonus is that I laughed so hard that I may have gotten my back to pop back in.

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WASP CONTROLLING MEASURES FOR SPRING:

March 19th, 2010

Now is the time to put up your wasp catchers for the summer.  There is nothing worse than finally having that day to tackle outdoor chores in July and the wasps attack with a flurry of wings and stingers.  Isn’t it too early for Wasp Catchers you may ask?  It’s perfect timing because the only wasps and hornets that are out right now are the queens.  Capture the queens and it lessons the chance that the rest will grace you with their presence.  Try it….you’ll like the results.

Pine Beetle Alert

March 19th, 2010

Pine Beetle Alert:

Pine Beetle 5mm in size

Pine Beetle 5mm in size

Grassroots Landscape Inc. prides itself in being an organic company.  There is only one exception to this rule and that is regarding the Pine Beetles.  Due to climactic changes the trees have been under stress.  Just like humans this weakens their immune systems.  At that point one opportunistic invasion after another can try to latch on to the tree host.  The interesting fact about the Pine Beetle is that, contrary to popular thought, it is not the beetle itself that kills the tree.  It is the blue stain mold carried by the beetle that infects and kills the tree.  A tree can actually endure a few “hits” and it’s immune system can ward off the fungus.  Too many hits and there is a problem and the tree will surcomb.

  • Basic Facts: A pine beetle is only 5 mm. in length or approximately the size of a grain of sand. The females hatch from the larva tubes inside of last years host tree from Mid July to Mid August.  Their only goal in life it to fly to the next available tree and burrow in starting the entire cycle again.  Once in the tree they emit a pheromone that attracts males to the tree.  And the cycle begins again.
  • Treatment Options: Within the horticultural community discussions are a buzz.  To spray or not to spray.  Let me give you some information so that you can make your own educated decision. I’ll start with the organic solutions:
  • Anti-aggregation pheromone patches: These verbenone patches trick the pine beetle into believing that the tree is no longer useful.  This approach is helpful if you have one or two trees to protect.  I would suggest as many as 6 patches nailed to the branches of the pine tree youwish to protect.
  • Chitosan: The US Forest Service tested chitosana, an eco-friendly biopesticide, pre-arms pine trees to defend themselves against MPB. The product is mixed with water and applied at the drip line of the tree.  It has been shown to elicit a natural defense response of increased resin pitch-outs with the ability to destroy 37% of the pine beetle eggs.  This is in it’s beginning stages of use.  I will be doing some testing myself this year.
  • Integrated pest management strategy (IPM): The most effective way to manage pine beetles is to use the IPM. This strategy includes removing and cutting dead trees as well as thinning trees to maintain a healthy forest or garden.
  • The non organic choice:  Spraying:   One of the more effective ways of protecting a pine tree from beetles. The spray is made up of Carbaryl (Sevin SL and XLR, and others), Permethrin (Astro, Dragnet and others) and, bifenthrin (Onyx). Carbaryl is considered by the EPA to likely be carcinogenic to humans. It is moderately toxic to wild birds and partially to highly toxic to aquatic organisms. Permethrin is easily metabolized in mammalian livers so is less dangerous to humans. Negative effects can be seen in aquatic ecosystems as well as very toxic to other beneficial insects. Bifenthrin is moderately dangerous to humans and mammals. Bifenthrin is slightly more toxic to birds and aquatic ecosystems then permethrin, as well as extremely toxic to other beneficial insects. In other words it is effective but comes with an environmental cost. Pines should be sprayed before the beetle flight in July, so May or June will yield the best results.  This is a serious chemical and should be treated as such.  Any overspray will be toxic in your garden until it eventually biodegrades.
  • Logs that are infested with beetle larva: may be dealt with by burning, burying, or chipping. They can also be dealt with using solar treatment. The solar treatment for killing pine beetle larva involves cutting and heating the logs containing the larva to 110 degrees F in or to kill the larva.

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TO DO LIST FOR GARDENERS IN MARCH:

March 19th, 2010

TO DO LIST FOR GARDENERS IN MARCH:

Caution is the keyword this month. It may look warm and inviting, but unless you live in the lower latitudes, you could be courting disaster if you try to plant before your last frost date. Suit the work to the weather.

hands holding compost with plant

hands holding compost with plant

  • If you haven’t been monitoring it, turn your compost pile now. Dampen it and begin turning it regularly to get it to heat up so you can enjoy the production of good compost faster. If you haven’t started a compost pile, start one this month.
  • Deal with pests now. A lime sulphur spray is organic and protects against scales, mites, and borers on fruit trees, roses, and shrubs as well as black spot and powdery mildew. It’s a dormant spray, so apply before the middle of the month when many plants begin to bud out. (Protect your house; it can spot brick, stucco, and leave spots on paint.) After they begin to bud, a Bordeaux mixture of copper dust can be used. Always use any compound-organic or otherwise-cautiously according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
  • Get those weeds while they are little. Use a flame gun to spot kill weeds while they are small or pull by hand. Vinegar or boiling water also work to kill weeds and don’t leave problems behind. Avoid using salt, because it will ruin the soil.
  • If you haven’t already planned your season’s plantings, do it now. Take advantage of companion planting that can strengthen and reinforce plant vigor while repelling pests. For example, nasturtiums and marigolds repel white flies and aphids.
  • March is the best time to make corrections and improvements to lawn including reseeding. Adding a layer of compost mixed with wood ash can reinvigorate poor soil and cut down on moss.
  • Build a cold frame to acclimate seedlings and tender plants to ready them for transplant in April and May.
  • Finish other structural projects like trellises before planting.
  • Plant early spring vegetables and flowers. These include spinach, lettuces, peas, and leeks as well as sweet peas.
  • Early spring is also a good time to divide and transplant if the soil isn’t too wet. Respacing existing favorites can give them extra wiggle room to get bigger and healthier.
  • Dahlia tubers stored last fall can be started late in the month. Lay on a bed of sand and begin watering. (Avoid overwatering and too much warmth.)
  • Prune roses just before they start to bud out.
  • Attend to your indoor plants too. They’ve just come through a long winter and need a bit of fertilizer. Repot those that are root bound. Avoid overwatering as weakened plants are more readily subject to disease and root rot.

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June 3rd, 2009

Three of the properties that Grassroots Landscape Inc. helped to create are in “The Garden Tour” this Saturday, June 6,2009.  They will be featured  along with many other WONDERFUL gardens in the downtown/mapleton Hill area.  It’s a fundraiser for Washington Elementary School.  Please spread the word.  The School need the funds and the gardens need to soak up all that loving energy.  It’s from 11-2 on Saturday and you can pick up tickets for $10 a piece at the corner of Pine and 4th.  There is a lemonade stand there and the kids are selling tickets and…..lemonade.  How cool is that ~  I love it when the community pulls together to create a feeling of belonging.  My properties are at:  2135 4th street, 419 canyon, and Fortune Park at the corner of 4th street and Canyon. I will be at the 2135 4th street location from 11-2. Spread the word.  Thanks! It’s a wonderful way to start dreaming of gardens to come!

April

THE GROWING GARDENS AMAZING PLANT SALE

April 23rd, 2009

Mark your calendars:  “THE GROWING GARDENS AMAZING PLANT SALE” is Saturday May 17th and Sunday May 18th.  This is a wonderful and affordable way to get your plants.  I will be working at the plant sale from 10:00 to 4:00 as a “Plant Wrangler” and would love to answer any questions you have about which plants would do best in your gardens.  Take advantage of this chance to support your local community gardens and to socialize with other gardeners!   Location:  the parking lot of the mental health complex at Iris and Broadway.  For more information go to: http://www.growinggardens.org/english/events/plantsale.html

See you at the sale!  April

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Tree Disease in Boulder

February 20th, 2009

An important article from the City of Boulder about tree disease in Boulder.

PET ALERT – cocoa mulch dangerous to dogs

February 19th, 2009

I recently received this alert from “WILT” (women in landscape technology). I have seen problems occur from the use of this mulch.  Please Pass this information on if you know of anyone who has dog friends.

“Cocoa Mulch, which is sold by Home Depot, Foreman’s Garden Supply and other Garden supply stores, contains a lethal ingredient called ‘ Theo bromine’. It is lethal to dogs and cats. It smells like chocolate and it really attracts dogs. They will ingest this stuff and die. Several deaths already occurred in the last 2-3 weeks. Theo bromine is in all chocolate, especially dark or baker’s chocolate which is toxic to dogs. Cocoa bean shells contain potentially toxic quantities of theobromine, a xanthenes compound similar in effects to caffeine and theophylline. A dog that ingested a lethal quantity of garden mulch made from cacao bean shells developed severe convulsions and died 17 hours later. Analysis of the stomach contents and the ingested cacao bean shells revealed the presence of lethal amounts of theobromine.”

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